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Medium Plate Chicken from Silk Road |
I’ve been in London for twelve weeks and I am reflecting on
this because I preparing to go away for a little bit (but returning for another
eight months afterwards). London thus far has been pretty good; its gone fast then
slow then fast again. Being geographically somewhere else (other then your
norm) is the best antidote to oneself. It let’s you be someone else, defines
who you think you are, who you were and who you want to be. It has been subtler
being in London then other places I have traveled and lived because I know this
is for a finite time even if it is a longish stay. I don’t know how to describe
this experience thus far besides transformative. Can such words be batted
around this day in age? I believe that yes, it can be. I can’t wait to be home
in NYC for a spell but I have to say, I am getting extremely fond of this place
and all I have experienced within it.
Below is a quick A to Z (or as they say Zed) of things I have grown to love about London.
A – Arcadia Missa - People in certain spheres are in the know
about this gallery space and with good reason. It is in Peckham, close to the
overground stop and it has an ethos and programming that seems rare in this
city. It does what it wants to do but is dedicated and thoughtful of what this
is. It is a meeting ground for artists and curators but also is a connector
whose connections are not mere tools or means to an end but the source and
purpose of that end. I have gone to more openings and events there then
anywhere else and look forward to attending so many more.
B – Buses – I know I have remarked on transport before but
wow, buses, you use buses all the time especially if you live South like moi. I
have come to appreicate and am getting used to them. They are truly the only way to
get door to door from this far-flung place to another. Also, when you know
exactly the route you are going, sitting on top when there are not many people
on board is actually pretty relaxing.
C – Coats – It is not as cold here as in is in NYC but there
is a constant rainy, dreary, mist thing that happens. It’s very bearable in
contrast to bone snapping east coast cold but it’s the type of cold that seems
to seep into you. I am almost always cold here. Wearing/having the right coat
is essential as you wait outside much more. Waterproof, long, wool, and
something with a hood is optimal.
D – Drugs – Seems chill here. I’m sure there are problems
with it in many different forms but socially people seem just relaxed and
community about it. It seems more like background then some sort of event which
feels much easier.
E – Eggs – Can’t get over the quality of the eggs here.
Amazing. They also keep them on the shelf. No fridge ever. Omelette aux fine
herbs (aka herb omelette) is probably my breakfast of choice at the moment.
F- Friends – Maybe it’s just me beinging more relaxed/out of
my element but I find finding and making friends here buckets loads easier and smoother then in NYC. Not that I don’t love my friends in NYC (I do and I
miss you all dearly) but there is an ease in which you meet people here. The
question of ‘what do you do’ is not asked as quickly or as purposefully. There
is this screen for some English people, almost everyone is polite but that
doesn’t mean they like you. So when you meet someone and you both like-like each
other then it’s pretty for real and meaningful.
G – Gardens – Even though it is getting colder, there is
still lovely little gardens hanging on since it doesn’t frost as soon or as
quickly. Parsley out back is still thriving. Lovely.
H – Homes – London is sort of like LA in this way (prob the
only way), in that you go to peoples’ homes for dinner and hanging out. Sure
you go to this or that place but first you meet up, have a drink, and hang
around. You also eat at homes as well. It is just the best way to get to know
people and to feel that warm fuzzy feeling of being a part of a
city/humanity/universe/ all that jazz.
I – Insurance – Health insurance is free. Free. As in, walk
in, get seen by a doctor and get a prescription and its all free. Amazing.
J – Jupiter Woods – Another outpost for art that I have
found myself at entirely too much but in the best way. Run by six curatorial
students at Goldsmiths this is a project space that is actually being executed
as it is envisioned which is hopeful and fun to witness. Its an experiment, its
rotational, it seems slightly slap dash but that’s what makes it so good and
honest and worth visiting (often).
K – Kale – They are just not that into the kale/organic
thing here. But this is probably because they have a more engrained culture of
local and farm to table type of eating/living in general.
L – Long, Late, Large – Everything takes a long time to get
to. You will probably be late to everything and the city is very large. All
these things can be annoying but once you acclimate you just deal with it, plan
ahead accordingly and in a good way (sometimes) end up staying somewhere for
much longer then you anticipated. It’s like a forced slow movement on your
daily activities. Frustrating beyond belief but also makes you chill out more.
M – Museums – Also mentioned this previously but it is
pretty astounding the amount of museums London has and that almost all of them
are free. I have a few more of the big
ones to tick of my list and then bundles more of smaller ones and I hope by
year’s end they become familiar and some of them become refuges.
N – Niceties – Everyone is really polite. Sometimes they are
so polite that it is sarcastic but most times people are just really really actually
polite. It’s truly bizarre sometimes. Like the train conductor expounds on how
they wish you a good day and hopes you had a good journey and apologies for the short
delay a few stops back. It’s all so charming. Ugg.
O – Opera, Organ Music – There are a lot of radio stations
and they are very eclectic and much better then back home. There are some great
classical stations and putting that on or some opera is very relaxing. I’m not a huge opera/classical music head but it has
somehow become my default whilst cooking and I really enjoy it. Also, I have
been popping into churches and cathedrals for a choral or organ mass and it is
really fabulous to listen to in those old and vaulted spaces. Acoustics that
vibrate the floors.
P – Peckham – I live in Peckham off of the Peckham Rye stop
and I love my little neighborhood. There’s this slight East vs. South chitter
(East being Hackney/Dalston etc.) but meh, I like my little hamlet and I have
Southern pride for sure.
Q – Queens Road – Apparently the Queen(s) have had many
roads because there are many scattered around. This is good to know because
having an address like 55 Queens Road can literally land you in multiple places
in various areas. London is very large, as mentioned above, and it is broken up
by postal code. You live and die by postal codes.
R – Roasts – People apparently get together on Sundays and
eat with their family and/or friends and put a carcass of one animal or another (or veg equivalent)
in the oven and then they eat, drink and talk and then they slowly call it a
night. God, this place is so civilized!
S – South London Gallery – Still repping South here,
this is a well established non-profit that exhibits heavy hitters and also has
a room for events and lectures. There are a few of these large/small
institutions throughout London and they are resources and seem generous with
their space and time. (From what I have witnessed thus far).
T – Trainers – As mentioned in a previous post re: London dress code,
people dress way more casually here then in NYC. Like everyone wears sweats, and big
baggy ones at that. I too wear sweats more but I try to keep it to the domestic
or school setting. But yes, trainers, sweats, sweatshirts, and hoodies (all
over sized) are the look and I don’t blame anyone because it is so comfy even
if you look so over it.
U – Ukip – People love to talk politics here and that means
everyone from high schoolers crammed on a bus, the commuter being stuffed into
the underground or the immigrant who has a thick accent. It makes politics seem
pressing and possibly even mutable.
V – Vinegar – Chips with salt and vinegar aka fries with
salt and vinegar, are just heaven and additionally fun then you get them in a
bouquet like bundle to go.
W – Water – There is of course the Thames (which is a lot
smaller then I thought it would be) but then you come across a canal or a pond
and you are reminded how London is in the middle of an island with large bodies
of water nearby but not right at hand. I’m not sure why but I think about water
a lot here.
X - Xinjiang– Silk Road is a Chinese restaurant in Camberwell
and they cook food from the Xinjiang region of China, which is inhabited by the
Turkic Uighur Chinese population. It is the best Chinese Restaurant I have been
to. Seriously, I just think about eating their food a lot of the time.
Y – Youth – There is youth culture everywhere but it seems
like it’s not that big of a difference or deal here. Or maybe I’m just used be
being surrounded by 23-27 year olds so much at this point. But honestly, age seems
less of a point here and that is good because I’m always the oldest person in
the room these days. Hehe.
Z – Zone – Like post codes, areas are demarcated by Zones. I
live in Zone 2. I stay in Zone 2 80% of the time and then to Zone 1, which is
more Central London, the rest of the time. These zones determine the cost of
transport. I have a Zone 1/Zone 2 travel pass. Crossing outside of these zones
is mega expensive and god only knows what’s out there (but I look forward to
finding out).